While this strain’s name may arguably be in bad taste, this strain’s flavor certainly doesn’t taste bad. In fact, Agent Orange is renowned for its delicious citrusy orange flavor, making it one of the tastiest sativa-dominant strains out there. Subcool at TGA Genetics created this wonderful hybrid strain by crossing Orange Velvet and Jack the Ripper. This practical grow guide will guide you through the process of growing your own Agent Orange plants at home.
Tip #1: Agent Orange Growing Difficulty
An Agent Orange plant is rated as moderately difficult to grow. While the majority of the growing techniques themselves aren’t overly difficult to master, they do require a certain level of carefulness and skill to carry them out properly. An Agent Orange plant is fairly high maintenance, too, as there are a number of factors which you will have to pay careful attention to, particularly in the germination and vegetative stages.
You will need to regularly carry out Low-Stress Training (LST), which involves manipulating the plant’s stem, bending it over to encourage new nodes to form on its branches. As the plant progresses through the vegetative stage you will need to carry out regular defoliation of the larger fan leaves to improve air circulation, light distribution and to aid growth in the lower parts of the canopy. While there may be a lot of work involved, the rewards more than make up for the effort you have to put in.
Tip #2: Growing Agent Orange Outdoors/Indoors
An Agent Orange plant can be grown indoors or outdoors, in soil or hydroponically. This plant thrives outdoors in a sunny, warmer climate with milder nights. While growing outdoors will undoubtedly produce a higher yield, you can still get excellent results from growing indoors.
If growing outdoors isn’t an option, you can use a grow setup such as an indoor two-by-four tent. Growing your Agent Orange plants in a humidity dome will help maintain the desired humidity level. Use an exhalation bag at the start of the vegetative stage to provide the Agent Orange plants with the carbon dioxide they need to grow. An oscillating fan will definitely help improve air circulation within the humidity dome too.
Tip #3: Agent Orange Growing Techniques
You can begin the germination process by placing the Agent Orange seeds in a glass of tap water and leaving them for 15-18 hours. After all of the seeds have sunk to the bottom, pour the glass of water containing the seeds onto a paper towel. Place the paper towel onto a heat mat with a bowl over the top to keep the moisture in. Be careful not to let the paper towel dry out as it can kill the seeds.
Check on the seeds every five hours for up to 24 hours to see if the seeds have produced tap roots of at least half an inch in length. The tap roots will be thin and white in appearance. Once the seeds have produced these taproots, you are good to move onto the next step of placing them into their own individual Rockwool plug.
This part is a little tricky, and you need to be very careful when handling the seeds. Pick up the seed itself, not the delicate tap root, and then place them root down (i.e. the tap root goes into the plug first) one by one into separate Rockwool plugs. Seal the Rockwool plug by pinch-closing the top. Then place the plug into a plant tray with individual sections for each plug.
Once you have all of the plugs in your plant tray, place it into a humidity dome to control the humidity level. One tip for maintaining the humidity level is to place some water at the bottom of the tray and make sure to put the dome cover on to keep the moisture in. You can also maintain the moisture level by misting the plugs using a misting bottle.
Keep the seedlings in the Rockwool plugs in the humidity dome for another 24 hours with the dome cover on. The next day, they should have produced a root visible at the bottom of the plug. They are now ready for transplanting into solo cups. Fill the solo cups to about halfway with nutrient-rich soil. Place the Rockwool cubes in the soil and fill around the plug with soil until the cup is full. Repeat the process to transplant the remaining seedlings into separate solo cups.
Place the solo cups back into the humidity dome and give them and the soil a light misting to keep them moist. Cover the dome with the lid, but this time open the vents about a quarter of the way. Leave for another 24 hours, then give the plants a light misting again, put the lid back on the humidity dome and open the vents to about halfway. Continue to mist the plants about three times a day for a few days. When the plant has produced some more fan leaves and the roots are coming out of the bottom of the solo cup, then the plants are ready for being transplanted into air pots.
You can use five-gallon air pots containing a prepared nutrient-rich soil as your grow medium. As an alternative, you can purchase bags of nutrient-rich super soil rather than going to the extra effort of making your own. Break up any large clumps of soil and shake the pots gently from side to side to make sure all of the soil is evenly spread in the pots. Make a hole for your Agent Orange plant to be planted into.
To remove the plant from the solo cup, gently squeeze the side of the pot to separate it so it can be removed from the cup. Try not to squeeze the cup too tightly to prevent the soil around the roots of the plant breaking up. Once you have transplanted the plant into the five-gallon air pot, fill around the base of the plant with soil so that it is held securely in place. Repeat the transplanting process for all of the Agent Orange plants you are growing.
Around week five of the vegetative stage, the plants will benefit from the introduction of a Screen of Green (SCROG) net. The SCROG method is a very useful technique for increasing the number of budding sites on your Agent Orange plant. Hang a SCROG net about two to three inches over the top of the plants. You will need to defoliate and carry out some LST regularly to help the Agent Orange plant to become bushy and fill out the SCROG net.
Tip #4: Agent Orange Watering and Misting
As early as the first week of the vegetation stage you will need to begin watering. To know if you need to water, simply check the soil just below the surface with your fingers to judge how moist it is. If the soil isn’t dry, then a light misting three times a day will be sufficient. Once the soil just beneath the surface is dry to the touch, you can start feeding and watering. The recommended ratio for plain watering applications to nutrient feeds is 3:1, i.e. one nutrient feed followed by three plain watering applications.
It is a good idea to create a grow journal to keep track of your applications of nutrient feeds and water. This can become confusing if you don’t keep a record of it. You will likely forget the number of water applications you have given and whether it is time for a nutrient feed or not, so a written record will become a useful reference.
Tip #5: Feeding for Agent Orange
For the plant’s first nutrient feed during the vegetation stage, a quarter strength application is appropriate. You can use a nutrient feed such as Fox Farm Dirty Dozen and Cal-Mag, using a quarter of a teaspoon of each mixed in water. Pour carefully and directly into the soil, not onto the leaves, as the plants will absorb the nutrients from the soil. Water around the top of the soil in the pot to encourage the roots to grow in all directions in the soil. Mist the plants again after feeding them to keep them moist. The plants should start to thrive after their first nutrient feed and water applications. The leaves should turn a vibrant green color and the stems will start to stand upright.
If you have given three plain water applications since your last nutrient feed and the soil is dry then you can go ahead and give the plants another nutrient feed. As the plants progress through the vegetation stage each week, you will gradually increase the level of nutrients and water, from one-quarter strength to half, three-quarter and finally full strength. Refer to a feed guide to make sure you are giving the plant the appropriate amount.
Tip #6: Low-Stress Training (LST) for Agent Orange
Early on in the vegetative stage, as the Agent Orange plants start to thrive, you can begin Low-Stress Training (LST). LST involves manipulating the plants stem to one side to encourage new node growth, which will cause the plant to thicken up and become bushier, which will mean a higher yield come harvest time. An Agent Orange plant requires regular LST to produce the best results. Give the plant at least a full day’s rest after LST to recover and develop these new nodes.
While performing LST, it is recommended that you use the three-finger technique. Place your index and middle finger on the plant’s stem about an inch from the top, then move your thumb in behind the stem. Gently and carefully ease the plant’s stem over your thumb using your fingers. Work your way down the stem until the plant is bent over to one side. Make sure that the plant’s leaves are not in the soil as it can be harmful to them. Tie a piece of string or an anchor (thin cable) around the top of the plant’s stem and tie this to the air pot to hold it in place.
You will probably find the three-finger technique a little awkward at first but it is a great technique which should ensure that you don’t damage the plant’s stem. The plant should respond to the LST by growing up towards the light from its bent over position. Over the next few days, you should see new node growth. As the plant continues to grow during the vegetative stage, simply bend the new growths away from the center of the plant and the light.
Tip #7: Agent Orange Defoliation and Airflow
When the Agent Orange plant first starts to develop large fan leaves, you can simply tuck these in to improve air circulation and light distribution. However, as the plant thickens up and gets bushy, you will need to start defoliating regularly and fairly heavily. Remove the larger fan leaves so that lower parts of the canopy receive enough light. This will help the entire plant to receive the light it needs, as well as helping with air circulation and providing the space for new growth to flourish.
You may even need to defoliate up to 15-20% of these large fan leaves to get the best results. Remove the larger fan leaves that are covering the lower parts of the canopy. Also, remove any lower leaves that are drooping into the soil or any leaves with reddening on their stem. You will also need to train the top of the plant to keep its height under control. You will likely also need to use trellises to support the plant and keep the buds out of the soil as the plant grows.
By the fifth week of the vegetative stage, the CO2 being emitted from your exhalation bag will no longer be adequate to meet the growing plant’s needs. You can purchase a CO2 canister which is designed to cover eight square feet of growth. If you are growing your plants in a two-by-four tent, then one canister is enough.
Add a liter of lukewarm water to the canister, place the lid back on the canister, remove the sticker, and put your thumb on top of the hole and shake. Once you release your thumb, you will hear a hissing sound as the carbon dioxide is released. Hang the canister above the plants. Shake the canister daily, ideally during the optimal hours of early morning, to release the carbon dioxide the plants need to grow. You can buy refills for the canister when they run out.
Aim to maintain the temperature between 72-78 degrees Fahrenheit during the later weeks of the vegetative stage, as this will help produce the best results. You also should keep the humidity level between 60-65% in the vegetative stage before lowering it to 40-50% at the beginning of the flowering stage. An Agent Orange plant can begin to flower at week 7, but much more typically this occurs between eight to nine weeks.
An Agent Orange plant grown outdoors will be ready for harvesting around October and will typically produce 19 ounces of bud per plant, while one grown indoors will produce an average yield of 16 ounces per square meter.
Tip #8: What Lighting should I use to grow my Agent Orange Plant?
While your Agent Orange seeds are germinating in the Rockwool plugs in the humidity dome, place a 100-watt LED light approximately 18 inches above the plants. You can start off by using 18 hours of light exposure and 6 hours of darkness to help the seeds to germinate. During the early weeks of the vegetative state, if the plants are looking “leggy”, i.e. thin rather than bushy and strong, you should increase the LED light in the humidity dome by about 5%. As the plant grows, gradually increase the LED lighting by 5% each time.
By about the fourth week of the vegetation stage, you will need to physically raise the light around four inches higher, as the plants will have grown significantly by this time. This will prevent the leaves from being damaged by being too close to the heat being emitted from the lights. You can switch to a 200-watt LED light for the middle weeks of the vegetation stage, but by week 6 you will need to up the wattage substantially to a 600-watt LED set to about 50%. Again, increase the light by 5% each time until you are operating at 100%.
Final Thoughts on Growing Agent Orange
As you can see, growing an Agent Orange plant involves more than throwing some seeds into soil and shouting “grow” at them. It takes a lot of care and attention to get the best results. If you are a keen grower you are likely to relish the challenge of performing the daily tasks required. Regular LST, misting, watering and nutrient feeding, as well as a significant amount of defoliation, makes Agent Orange a high maintenance plant to grow. For those who persevere, though, the rewards make all of the effort worth it.