8 Tips for Growing the Cannatonic Marijuana Strain: Practical Cultivation Guide


Spain may not be known as a hotbed of marijuana cultivation, but we can thank this sunny European country for producing Cannatonic. Resin Seeds are responsible for breeding this excellent medicinal marijuana strain. It is the preferred strain of individuals who want to get some relief for a medical condition but don’t wish to get high.

By the standards of the modern era, Cannatonic is classified as a moderate to low-THC strain with anywhere between 7% and 15%. Meanwhile, it contains a whopping 12% of CBD. In other words, you are likely to find a Cannatonic strain that offers at least a 1:1 ratio of CBD to THC.

Due to the high-CBD, low-THC nature of this strain, the high it produces is mellow and light. It doesn’t last that long, but is nonetheless pleasant, and an ideal strain for a novice. Users report feeling happy, calm, and optimistic. The high ensures you still feel clear-headed, and ready to tackle any tasks you have left for the day, although Cannatonic doesn’t seem to provide an energy boost.

Its distinct, earthy aroma is alluring, while the citrus and fresh pine taste make this a pleasure to use. Medical patients enjoy using Cannatonic to help treat inflammation, depression, anxiety, and pain. If Cannatonic is your favorite strain, keep reading to learn some interesting tips and tricks when growing it.

1 – Cannatonic Prefers Indoor Growing

You can grow outdoors, but it is far more difficult. Cannatonic is prone to mildew and mold, so you need to live in a dry climate to have a chance of growing it properly. If you cultivate outdoors, you will get around 14 ounces per plant, and it should be ready for harvest by the end of October.

Indoor growing is unquestionably the best option because it gives you the opportunity to monitor your crop closely. Its flowering time is 9-10 weeks, and you could get up to 18 ounces per square meter planted.

2- Keep Humidity Down

Humidity relates to the amount of water vapor that is in the air. Relative humidity (RH) refers to the amount of water vapor that air can hold at a specific temperature. Once the RH in a room exceeds 100%, the excess water is no longer held by the air and is condensed into droplets such as rain or fog.

For instance, imagine if your grow room temperature is 86 degrees Fahrenheit and the room has an RH of 33%. If you lowered the temperature to 51 degrees (such a drop is not recommended), the RH would rise to 100%. If the temperature fell below 51 degrees, the water in the air would start to condensate.

Cannatonic prefers a lower humidity level than most strains. Once the strain is in the vegetative stage, keep the RH in the 55-60% range. By flowering time, you should have reduced the RH to below 50% and as your crop approaches harvest, make sure the RH is at 40% or below. Cannatonic also thrives in warmer temperatures so keep the average daytime temperature between 72 and 82 degrees.

3 – Preventing and Treating Mold

No matter how clean your grow room is, if you make one of a handful of mistakes, mold can grow and threaten to ruin your Cannatonic crop. As you probably know, mold is a fungus and an extremely common plant pathogen. Powdery mildew and white mold are the most likely issues to affect your marijuana plants.

Powdery mildew looks like a white powder and will appear on your leaves. It is relatively easy to spot as long as you check your plants regularly. White mold will be found on the fruit of your plants and resembles little balls of cotton at the start. If you spot it too late, it can destroy your plant.

It is very easy to contaminate your grow room with mold spores, and once they get in, they need warmth and moisture to thrive. Aside from getting the RH and temperature in the right areas, good airflow is also crucial. If your Cannatonic plants are getting too bushy during the vegetative stage, prune them to improve airflow. While you’re at it, make sure you train the plants so that the colas are evenly spaced out.

An organic fungicide should be used on plants infected with mold. Hydrogen dioxide solutions are widely available, and when sprayed on the mold, it dries out the spores immediately and prevents them from reproducing.

4 – Germinating Your Cannatonic Seeds

You can purchase Cannatonic seeds online. Make sure you get feminized seeds or else half of the seeds you purchase will grow into male plants and must be removed from your garden before they pollinate the females. The best seeds will be hard, completely dry, and have a light or dark brown color. Undeveloped seeds are normally green or white and not particularly hard. Such seeds are unlikely to germinate properly.

All you need for fast and reliable germination is several paper towel sheets and a pair of clean plates. First, soak four sheets in distilled water, but please ensure there is no excess runoff water as this is a sign that the sheets are TOO wet. Place two of the sheets on a plate and put the seeds on top. Cover with the last two sheets, and put the second plate on top.

As long as you are patient and the room temperature is between 70 and 90 degrees, the seeds should germinate in a few days. Regularly check the sheets to ensure they remain full of moisture. You know the seed is ready for the next step when the tap root appears. This is a single root that sprouts of out the seed.

5 – Successful Transplantation

We recommend placing your Cannatonic seeds in 2-inch pots filled with potting soil or another growing medium if you are growing hydroponically. Rockwool cubes will have readymade indentations where you can place your seeds. If you are using soil, use a pen to poke a hole in the center that is ¼ of an inch deep.

Get a pair of sterilized tweezers and pick up the seed, making sure you don’t touch the root. Place it gently into the hole you made in the pot with the root facing down. Cover lightly with soil and add a bit of moisture using a spray bottle. In a week or thereabouts, a seedling will grow from the soil. Unfortunately, there are bad seeds that simply won’t sprout, and others that take longer than expected.

6 – What to Do During the Seedling Stage

This is an exciting point of development because you should start seeing marijuana leaves! Initial leaves are small, but soon they will develop larger leaves and begin to look like a plant. As the roots are still fairly small, there is no need to water it very often, nor should you add many nutrients. If you are using soil, don’t add any nutrients because the soil is already offering enough.

Seedlings are vulnerable to mold and disease so monitor the temperature and RH of the grow room; which should also be squeaky clean. Make sure the seedlings receive at least 18 hours of light a day. The RH level for Cannatonic can be at 65-70% at this stage, with a daytime temperature of around 77 degrees, and a nighttime temperature of approximately 70 degrees.

7 – Vegetative Stage Tips

Now is the time when it dawns on you that there are real, live cannabis plants in your home! You will need to transfer your plants to bigger pots as they rapidly outgrow their older ones. The foliage and roots are developing at lightning speed, which means your plants need plenty of nutrients. With Cannatonic, it is best to keep nutrient intake light until a few weeks into vegging.

When your plants are young, it is important to water close to the stalk. Later on, as they grow, it is best to water away from the stalk to enable the root tips to absorb the precious food. Cannatonic needs high nitrogen levels but don’t forget about Potassium, Phosphorus, Calcium, Magnesium, Cobalt, Sulfur, Manganese, and a host of other secondary nutrients. You can get all of the above from a store-bought fertilizer or if you create an organic super soil.

Anything above 13 hours of light a day is fine, but the closer to 24 hours, the better.

8 – Flowering Stage Advice

To help push your Cannatonic plants into the flowering stage, switch the light cycle so that they receive 12 hours of continuous darkness each day. It is now that your plants begin to bloom and form the resinous buds you crave. Increase the potassium and phosphorus levels and reduce nitrogen intake.

If you are still pruning your Cannatonic plants as they flower, stop doing so about two weeks into the blooming stage or else you risk undermining bud growth. You can also consider using the Screen of Green (SCROG) method to trellis the plants. This tactic ensures your plants are easily able to support the fat buds that grow.

Cannatonic should not take more than 10 weeks to flower, but don’t panic if harvest is a week or so later than scheduled. Halt nutrient intake a week before you are due to harvest. Check the pistils of your plants if you feel harvest time is due. If approximately 70% have turned a dark red or brown color (pistils are white beforehand), you can collect your buds. Alternatively, your plants are ready to harvest if most of their trichomes have turned a milky white color; sometimes they also have a domed head that makes them look like mushrooms.